Dannijo, the Print Edition

To showcase their Spring 2012 collection, the sister design duo of Dannijo Danielle and Jodie Snyder enlisted the help of photographer Lyle Owerko—who famously shot the image that appeared on Time magazine’s September 11, 2001 issue—to photograph their friends wearing Dannijo gems. “The Portraits project we did with Lyle was so well received that the concept has expanded into the birth of a zine about individuals and lifestyle,” Danielle tells Style.com of their newest project. The free biannual, launching November 14, is set to be distributed in shops selling their jewelry and in art galleries and restaurants around the world.

“We’ve used the iconic yearbook format in the context of a newspaper to showcase a range of dynamic individuals who are essentially pioneers in their respective industries,” Snyder explains. That group includes designers, influencers, DJs, and musicians like ?uestlove, Mia Moretti, and Timo Weiland, offering fashion tips and trends. For the second edition of the zine, expect more work from Owerko, “maintaining the same black-and-white documentary style of photography,” but other than that, the rest is yet to be determined. “Stay tuned. It’s going to be about people, fashion ideas, music, film, technology, and philanthropy. Did I give away too much?”

—Kristin Studeman

Photo: Courtesy of Dannijo

Milan Vukmirovic Heads To Korea’s Boon The Shop

Milan Vukmirovic is no longer with Trussardi, but that doesn’t mean the fashion multi-hyphenate has slowed down. The launch issue of his new magazine, Fashion for Men, which is over 600 pages strong, hits newsstands at the end of the month, and Pitti announced last week that his capsule collection for Chevignon Heritage (four pieces for men, four for women) will make its debut at the Florence trade fair in January. Today, Style.com learned that Vukmirovic has been named the creative director for Boon the Shop, Korea’s pioneering multibrand retailer. For those unfamiliar with the store, a press release describes it as “a gateway to Seoul for brands like Marni, Yohji Yamamoto, Ann Demeulemeester, Comme des Garçons, Maison Martin Margiela,” and more. Vukmirovic himself calls it as a cross between Barneys and Colette, the latter of which he helped establish in 1997. In his new role, he’ll be responsible for two high-end retail concepts that are scheduled to launch in late 2012/early 2013. “I didn’t know Korea at all,” Vukmirovic said. “I was shocked by the modernity, the architecture, and the energy. It reminds me of Tokyo 15 years ago. I’m in love with it.”
—Nicole Phelps

Photo: Tommy Ton

Bodemeister 8-5 morning line favorite in Preakness

BALTIMORE (AP) — Just like in the Kentucky Derby, Bodemeister is the favorite in the Preakness.

“With (Bodemeister), anything in the middle would be fine,” the Hall of Fame trainer said. “With the Preakness, you just don’t want to be stuck on the inside where you have to use your horse a little bit. The Derby winner drew really well, also.”

This time, Bob Baffert intends to justify the odds.

I’ll Have Another will start from the No. 9 post. The colt won the Derby out of the No. 19 post and will again be ridden by Mario Gutierrez.

Despite finishing second in the Derby, Bodemeister was installed as the 8-5 favorite for Saturday’s second leg of the Triple Crown. The colt, trained by Baffert, set the pace at Churchill Downs before being overtaken in the stretch by I’ll Have Another, who won by 1½ lengths.

Funny Cide was last to win from No. 9 in 2003, and Baffert’s Lookin At Lucky was last to win from No. 7 in 2010.

The odds were set by Pimlico Race Course handicapper Frank Carulli. The field is the smallest since 2007, when Curlin beat Derby winner Street Sense in a nine-horse field.

Also entered are Tiger Walk (30-1), Teeth of the Dog (15-1), Pretension (30-1), Zetterholm (20-1), Went the Day Well (6-1), Creative Cause (6-1), Daddy Nose Best (12-1), Optimizer (30-1) and Cozzetti (30-1).

A victory would give I’ll Have Another the chance to become the first Triple Crown winner since Affirmed in 1978.

“Anything with a nine in it, we feel very good about. We’re cool with it,” trainer Doug O’Neill said. “We talked about the possibility of being inside Bodemeister and really forcing our hand to push him early. Now it’s in Mario’s hands to still kind of push Bode, but we’ll be on the outside of him.”

“I’m confident,” O’Neill said. “You never know. But as long as we continue to train like our horse is training, we won’t be that far off Bodemeister. If anything Bodemeister might be behind us early.”

Creative Cause trainer Mike Harrington, whose horse finished fifth in the Derby, was delighted with the No. 6 post.

“I love it. I love the horses inside of me,” Lukas said. “I love the whole thing. If they gave me a pick, I would have picked that one. It turned out great. Every time they drew another one, it looked better.”

I’ll Have Another is the second-favorite in the Preakness at 5-2.

“I don’t think it affects our running style,” Harrington said. “With 11 in there, post position is not nearly as important as the Derby. The middle is great. You couldn’t ask for anything better.”

Asked about having the second-favorite in the field despite winning the Derby, O’Neill said, “Bob Baffert has won five of these. I’ve never run a horse here. I totally respect that. I just hope anyone who bets Bodemeister is regretting it Saturday night.”

Baffert, a five-time Preakness winner, was delighted to receive the No. 7 post in the 11-horse field.

Went the Day Well owner Barry Irwin was delighted to see the fourth-place finisher in the Derby get the No. 5 post in the Preakness.

Hall of Fame trainer D. Wayne Lukas has a long shot with Optimizer, but spoke optimistically after getting the No. 10 post.

“I like the draw. The middle’s good,” Irwin said. “I didn’t want to be on the outside because the horse is green and I think he has a tendency to veer off to the right. Being on the rail, being a horse that doesn’t have that much experience, I think it would’ve been a little too claustrophobic for him down there.”

Santa Fe festival will honor Navajo artist

If You Go…

SANTA FE, N.M. (AP) — Artist Tony Abeyta just can’t help himself.

Abeyta’s inspiration comes from nature. He’s always looking at colors, cloud formations, angles and what he describes as a rhythm between the mesas and mountains. If he sees something, he’ll take a snapshot and file it away for later.

The gathering space at the Museum of Indian Arts and Culture in Santa Fe also features one of his murals.

“I think there’s a real appreciation for the traditional work and I think it’s great that artists are still keeping those traditions alive, but there’s a real acceptance of things that are nontraditional,” said Ardith Eicher, one of the show’s co-chairs. “Some of the contemporary work that these artists are doing is amazing.”

Abeyta is among the artists who are pushing the envelope when it comes to redefining American Indian art.

“These things are very intuitive,” he says of the amoeba-like shapes. “They’re coming from some inspired place.”

The show has grown over the last seven years, but its mission to raise money for the Museum of Indian Arts and Culture remains the same. The museum receives state funds for operating expenses, but money for staging exhibitions must come from private sources. The festival takes place at the Santa Fe Convention Center though some works will be on display at the museum.

Abeyta says it’s a little strange to think of himself as a living treasure at age 46. But festival organizers say the reasons were clear: his style, his time spent mentoring other young Native American artists and his refusal to fall back on formulas when it comes to creating art.

___

Abeyta says it’s as if the creative muse is channeled from one generation to the next. The inspiration may be inherent, but he says the creativity can evolve much like Indian art has from the early days of utilitarian cookware and painted hides.

The work will be hanging in the entry of the Museum of Indian Arts and Culture as part of the annual Native Treasures Indian Arts Festival, which opens in Santa Fe on May 25 with Abeyta being recognized as this year’s “living treasure.”

So what does it take to be a living treasure? One of the criteria is innovation, Eicher said.

At the Blue Rain Gallery in Santa Fe, director Peter Stoessel pointed to three very different pieces by Abeyta: a landscape made of large, angled brush strokes, a charcoal drawing of biomorphic shapes and a collection of panels featuring baseballs, birds and butterflies.

More than 200 native artists from over 40 different tribes have been invited to the two-day festival, which marks the start of Santa Fe’s summer art season. Everything from pottery and jewelry to carvings and textiles will be on display.

Organizers spend months scouting for artists to invite to the festival. They look for those who are established like Abeyta as well as emerging artists. The range of work stretches from the more traditional to modern abstraction.

The son of a painter, Abeyta grew up in Gallup, N.M., on the edge of the Navajo Nation. At 16, he left to pursue his education at the Institute of American Indian Art. He later studied at the School of the Art Institute of Chicago and at New York University.

In minutes, his fingertips are black, his forearms are smudged and there’s one more layer on the triptych he has dubbed “Divine Intervention.” Just in time for the curators to pick it up.

NATIVE TREASURES INDIAN ARTS FESTIVAL: May 26-27 festival at the Santa Fe Convention Center, 201 W. Marcy St., Saturday $10-$20, Sunday free. May 25 benefit, 5:30 – 7:30 p.m., at the Convention Center, $100; http://nativetreasures.org/.

“Some artists use words like ‘breaking all the rules.’ I don’t think it’s about breaking the rules,” he says. “I think it’s just continuing in a creative direction. Art just constantly changes and evolves.”

“He’s a phenomenal artist and yes, he’s Navajo and that imagery will pop up in his paintings, but at the end of the day, he’s an artist who happens to be Native American,” Stoessel said.

“I feel fortunate,” the Navajo painter and jewelry designer says. “I have an immense amount of gratitude that I can do what I do. I basically come in here and do what I want. I don’t have to be influenced by the market place, by my gallery, by collectors. I like the idea that I can be the music maker in the studio here.”

Back at Abeyta’s second-floor studio just off the Santa Fe Plaza, the artist continues to juggle time between an interview and the curators who are there to collect his charcoal triptych.

Pushing up his sleeves and letting his fingers make one more run through his deliberately tousled hair, he reaches for a bit of charcoal on his studio table and goes at the three finished canvases again.

___

“My small universe is really about nature. It’s about light, it’s about … design,” he said. “When I’m on it, I can just keep working and it’s almost musical. It’s the shapes, the forms and the directions that they all sort of carry my eye.”

Follow Susan Montoya Bryan on Twitter: http://www.twitter.com/susanmbryanNM

Curators, gallery owners and collectors say the stereotypical images of horses and Indians clad in feathers have given way to more contemporary work that stems from spiritual sensibilities often rooted in nature, tradition and culture.

Abeyta fits that bill. Aside from having his work in museums and private collections across the country, his accomplishments include a painting that served as the official illustration for the opening of the Smithsonian’s National Museum of the American Indian in Washington D.C.

Three decades later, he has become a bit of a hipster and his teenage daughter and 21-year-old son appear to be following in his footsteps. His son is a film student and his daughter is into contemporary art.

“As a Native American and as a Native American artist, the spiritual is part of who I am and what I do. And I work at that,” Abeyta said. “When I’m painting and I’m right on, I’m channeling all of this stuff from some other place, from some divine. I don’t know what it is.”

Get Kingston and Zuma’s Summer Style Must-Haves from Old Navy!

Kingston and Zuma Rossdale are pretty stylin’.

Helps when mom Gwen Stefani and dad Gavin Rossdale are all that and a bag of chips. Stefani has dressed both her little men in cool kids clothes from Old Navy: the camo shorts and the Mickey tee! So chic, so attainable and hello, so affordable!

Buy Kingston’s camouflage cargo shorts here.

Buy Zuma’s Mickey Mouse Tee here.

By Sasha Charnin Morrison for UsMagazine.com. To read more of the Recessionista blog, click here.

An Enfant Terrible Turns Ten

Photo: Courtesy of Peter Jensen

Peter Jensen’s London-based label turns 10 this year. With the quirk and the mischief that still characterize each collection, that might comes as a bit of a surprise. In fashion years, after all, 10 sounds positively mature. But Jensen himself is as surprised as anyone else. “I can’t believe it’s been ten years already,” the Danish designer says. “It’s gone by so fast. Mostly, when I look back, it’s a blur—but it’s been fun!” To celebrate, Jensen launched a book earlier this year, Peter Jensen & Mary Miles Minter & Mildred & Emma & Olga & Nancy… (the list of his muses goes on), and today, London’s Victoria and Albert Museum will host a series of retrospective shows, styled by Lucy Ewing, looking back at the last decade.

The shows will be live-streamed on the V&A’s Web site throughout the day, in which the designer will revisit each of the muses that have inspired his collections, from Meryl Streep (from Resort ‘12) to Anna Karina (Fall ‘11) to the Renaissance princess Christina of Denmark (Fall ‘07), of whom the designer admits to being particularly fond. So how has looking back felt? “Mostly I’ve been amazed at how we managed to do so much with so few resources. Some pieces I remembered loving are a bit of a shock when you get them out! Doing the Spring ‘05 show, with the ice skaters, was really emotional. I watched the video again recently; it still makes me a bit tearful.”

“This week I got asked to be in the Danish ‘Who’s Who,’ which made me really happy. It’s one of those things that I wanted as a child. I just need an Academy Award now and I can die happy!”
—Kiki Georgiou

Try the Military Look – Without Raiding Your Bank Account!

One of the must have items that seems to be on every editor and celebrity wish list this season is the military jacket.

To get Olivia Palermo’s casual-cool style, try these tips. Mix with leopard printed scarves, bags, or shoes. Sequins work well with olive, as well. Dress it up with a slim skirt, belt the waist and add a pointy toe heel. Dressing down gets a feminine chiffon blouse or flowy top, jeans, leggings or shorts.

 

I love this one from the Lourdes Leon collection, which you can find via Material Girl at Macy’s. It’s chic ($38!) and cheap and cheerful.

By Sasha Charnin Morrison for UsMagazine.com. To read more of the Recessionista blog, click here.

Gieves & Hawkes Goes Back To Its Roots

Try to imagine the owner of an esteemed Savile Row shop being told about this newfangled thing called London fashion week. Can’t you just see him, the posh old bloke, sitting there at the dinner table and pray-telling some junior interlocutor to explain himself the way Maggie Smith’s Countess Dowager did on Downton Abbey: “What is a wee-kend?”

Well, there’s no such sniffy skepticism at Gieves & Hawkes—the centuries-old tailors were the storied street’s only representative at LFW this year. But then, they’ve got reason to show their stuff. Design director Barry Tulip, who joined the company last spring after stints with Zegna and Dunhill, has plugged G&H into the fashion world with a Fall ready-to-wear collection that brings a hint of designer point of view to the house’s firmly bespoke tradition.

By shifting some focus off the suit and on to military-inspired outerwear, G&H is actually getting back to its roots. James Watson Gieve began his distinguished career in 1835 making navy jackets. This helps explain the choice of venue (Somerset House’s Navy Board Rooms, where onetime customer Horatio Nelson did his war planning) and the fact that an eight-button admiral’s topcoat served as the presentation’s centerpiece.

That coat is made out of fine cashmere, with horn buttons that reference Admiral Nelson by way of a nautical rope motif, and it’s perfectly contemporary. It comes across as less nineteenth-century than 1960’s, an era that a lot of the London tailoring world has been feeling lately. The slightly wider, drop-notch lapels on sport coats pay homage to swinging-London menswear icon Tommy Nutter, Tulip explained, and the geometric patterns on the collection’s silk ties and pocket squares were inspired by sixties decorator David Hicks. Even the lookbook is shot in a portrait style that brings to mind the photography of David Bailey and Lord Snowdon (and, to this reporter’s eye at least, features a model with a striking resemblance to a young Michael York).

All of which is to say that Gieves & Hawkes seems to have embraced the idea that when it comes to ready-to-wear, even tradition-minded men of means crave a little designer sensibility. As Tulip said, “To put it well, bluntly, or, you know, in a crass way, I suppose it’s value for money.”
—Darrell Hartman

Photo: Courtesy Photo

Karl Vs. Karl

In terms of diffusion lines, Karl Lagerfeld’s new collection, launching on Net-a-Porter, is shrouded with a particular amount of buzz that comes with the Lagerfeld name. Here, in this Style.com exclusive, the Kaiser interviews himself about the concepts of the line. “If I see you I think we are quite fresh and relevant. What’s your opinion?” he asks himself. “A question I never ask myself,” he answers. The full video debuts on Net-a-Porter this afternoon.

Recessionista Metal Guru

PRODUCT DETAILS
- Nylon liner material
- Polyurethane shell material
- Garment details: studs, grommets
- Interior features: zip pocket, cell phone pocket, slit pocket
- Shoulder strap handle
- Zip closure
- Dimensions: length: 18.0 “; width: 3.5 “; depth: 16.0 “

Buy it here.

I am so sick of my down coat, tights, scarf and boots. I need something to get me motivated — and voila! Of course Target came to the rescue. I actually smiled when I saw this Butterfly Stud handbag. I like!

(Unfortunately, so does everyone else. The brown bag by Mossimo is currently unavailable, but sign up to be notified when the bags are back in stock.)

Let the sunshine in!

The bag reminds me of something Nicole Richie would wear, and I assume that if Gucci and Miu Miu — two Italian designers — had a baby bag, this would be it. Of course, it is something inspired by the hippie dippie sixties (Richie’s fave decade), but it has a modern edge. I love the color and the studding — rock ‘n’ roll but not as mad aggressive as most. I also love the extra fringe pull on the zipper.